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本帖最后由 NeverGone 于 2024-7-2 21:48 编辑
一些公共主页欢迎关注，公众号：工装靴 微博知乎小红书等：NeverGone琛哥
最近想玩玩Modified楦，于是买了双M楦马臀。这个楦除了美国鞋店Moulded独占，以及made for巴黎Anatomica等店之外，海外市场基本是专供日本人了，所以也被人习惯称为“日本限定”
不过开箱的N0805H这个款式确实也算是日本限定了，M楦+3/4暴风沿条+与403 Indy一样的木屑橡胶底，跟日本复古店Arch前年发售的独占款是完全一样的配置，当时第一眼看到就觉得挺喜欢这个组合的。只不过我买来的价格要比Arch那含税223300日元的杀猪价美丽不少，知名奥登供应商李逍遥哥那边的价格确实还可以，不得不感叹玩这些的日本人真是水深火热。。。
如果用黑色马臀就是N0806H
图片来自Arch博客
这个叫Arch的日本复古店也挺神奇，店员只有在店里工作满1年了才能买自家店里的Alden……话不多说，下面开箱
等了大半个月到货了，熟悉的盒子
粗看感觉还行，一切安好
然而细看了一下，就发现这双翻车了，倒在这几点：
1 阳光下，左右脚有明显色差
2 右脚鞋头明显染料痕迹
3 左右脚前港宝痕迹明显
其实3我觉得还行，毕竟闻名如EG有时也会出现港宝印的问题，何况是奥登，就是1和2不太行，尤其是2
开箱的处理结果后面具体详述，先继续开箱
其他角度
跟Alden Indy一样的Neo cork sole木屑橡胶底
每双鞋我都喜欢拍这个角度
熟悉的内衬和编号，从左往右，8 B/D表示是美码US8，前掌围度D后跟围度B。N0805H，N代表出货给日本市场，0805表示是2010年出品的一双Plain toe靴子，H表示Hooks也就是快扣
N0805H上方的那行数字表示生产年月，工厂识别编号啥的
具体可以看StyleForum的帖子，有卖家根据原文整理出了2张图
我这边另外把原文摘抄了一下，意思都很简单，我就懒得翻译了，实在不行机翻一下就能看懂了：
Acronyms 常见字母缩写LWB: Longwing BlucherSWB: Shortwing BlucherAWB: Alt Wien BlucherPTB: Plain Toe BlucherLHS: Leisure Hand Sewn (A Penny Loafer)NST: Norwegian Split ToeCT/ST: Cap Toe/Straight TipPCT: Perforated Cap ToeWTB: Wingtip Boots
AoC - Alden of Carmel
AoDC - Alden of Washington D.C.
AoM - Alden Madison (New York)
AoSF - Alden of San Francisco
TSM - The Shoe Mart
BTW, the production month codes do not include the letter I, so it goes A = January, B = February, C = March, D = April, E = May, F = June, G = July, H = August, J = September, K = October, L = November, M = December.
Also, the order number is not entirely "random" -- in your example above, 2K29 029 -- there can sometimes be an "X" or a "Y" in the middle there to fill that gap. The three digits at the end (029) are the batch/run number. The presence of an X or a Y before those digits usually indicates that the order has multiple batches/runs in it. I haven't seen any letters other than X or Y used to indicate which batch/run the shoe is from. Sometimes, however, Alden will simply increase the batch number by 1 rather than designating it as an X or Y batch. For example, you might see a second batch with the number 2K29 030 (if there had been one).
Finally, the model codes themselves are not random. For most stock/catalog models, and certain already-established model numbers (pre-dating 2013), the model numbers don't necessarily follow any sort of convention, although there is some consistency in the way they are assigned.
For example, with stock models or older makeups, the 975 is a long wing shoe in Color 8, while the 9794 is the same shoe in snuff suede. The 9750 is ravello with dark edges, the 97502 is ravello with dark edge and crepe sole, the 97504 is ravello with antique edge and leather sole, the 97506 is ravello with waterloc and antique, etc., while the 97505 is color 8 with antique. Similarly, the 4461 is the color 8 wingtip boot while the 44621 is the ravello version. The 4060 is the color 8 cap toe on grant while the 4070 is the color 8 cap toe on barrie, etc. -- in short, there is some consistency although the pattern and system is not quite as rigorous.
For retailer makeups beginning in 2013, however, it gets far more interesting. Alden uses a convention which goes as follows:
[A][1][2][34][BC]
A = letter indicating the region (choices below)
- A = Asia (essentially all of Asia except Japan) [not to be confused with Alden for Brooks Brothers shoes, which begin with an A as well, but do not follow this numbering system]
- D = USA
- G = Canada
- M = Europe
- N = Japan
1 = number indicating the last digit of the year the makeup was originally created/ordered
- For example, a makeup submitted by a USA retailer in 2018 would begin with "D8", but if a retailer ordered the same makeup that had been previously made (even if by another retailer) it would get the same number as that prior makeup.
- For example, the D5511, which is a Color 8 LWB on antique edges, had originally been created in 2015, but has been ordered by multiple retailers since. Similarly, the M6405 (unlined front color 8 dover blucher) was created in 2016 but has been ordered by several retailers (including USA retailers) since. Re-orders of makeups receive the same, original style number, of course.
2 = number indicating the broad category into which the style falls (choices below)
- 1 = tassel moccasin
- 2 = all other slip-on loafers (including LHS)
- 3 = all bal oxfords
- 4 = bluchers (plain toe)
- 5 = bluchers (straight tip, wingtip)
- 6 = bluchers (algonquin, mocc toe, NST)
- 7 = boots (chukka)
- 8 = boots (plain toe, straight tip, wingtip)
- 9 = boots (mocc toe, NST)
- 0 = misc [have never seen a makeup with this so not sure what it actually is used for]
34 = two-digit number indicating which sequential number that makeup is that year, within the region and category of numbers 1 and 2
- For example, a makeup submitted by a USA retailer which is the 4th plain toe boot makeup to be submitted in 2018 (by a USA retailer) would begin with "D8804"
BC = one or two letters denoting details of the shoe (examples/choices below, the most common of which are bolded), if necessary [if anyone has better info on the unknowns, let me know] [also, some of these were used prior to the institution of the makeup numbering system, and do not appear to have been used since, particularly the unknown ones]
- A = unknown [not used since prior to 2013]
- B = unknown [not used since prior to 2013]
- C = commando sole
- D = Dainite sole [yep, Alden has used Dainite before, but extremely rarely]
- E = exposed eyelets, used on some "monkey" sneakers but also for some shoes with exposed eyelets [not used since prior to 2013]
- F = flex welt
- H = speed hooks
- M = unknown, in particular seems to be used for makeups for Eduard Meier in Munich, possibly for other European retailers as well, possibly to denote European makeups prior to the use of the newer numbering system (which may explain why M is used to denote Europe in the newer numbering system) [not used since prior to 2013]
- R = rubber sole (thin) [not used since prior to 2013]
- S = lug sole
- U = unlined
- X = unknown, used on some orthopedic-line shoes in the past, as well as on a recent order where the shoes were mis-dyed with a different dye
- Y = extended welt (welt is trimmed to be wider than typical)
熟悉的粗犷美式做工
这双鞋舌下料有点意思，正好把马臀背后的Horween霍尔文印章都露出了
M楦的特点就是鞋腰有点收，并且内足弓的凸起程度（一般泛指“足弓支撑”）比Alden其他楦要来的更明显
跟之前写的8D 379X黑色马臀对比一下。可以看到同码同宽度，M的鞋头长一点，前掌宽一点。足弓处M的凸起更明显，而且M这种香蕉楦收腰更明显，后跟的话两者差不多
不够翘的美式翘臀
Alden的马臀镀层，远看显得非常亮，能盖住马臀原本的质地以及一些瑕疵，但细看就能看到马臀的毛囊孔，如果是浅色马臀，则会更加明显
虽然翻车了，但就整体美感而言，我觉得还是OK的，不然我也不会留下了……
出现这种翻车事件，肯定是买卖双方都不愿意看到的。于是收到后第一时间与逍遥哥沟通。首先，发货前是给我发过一个视频的，但那个视频是在室内人造光环境下，我们俩都没看出明显色差和染料痕迹
逍遥哥挺负责的，最终处理结果是退了一部分钱。我确实比较喜欢这个配置组合，而且8码就这一双，其他地方很难买到了。如果我再自己海淘的话，可能要等非常久，或者到了又翻车了而且要花更多精力售后维权……
所以，买卖随缘吧，玩这个真的是抽奖。现在就是期待8号色旧化褪色以后，两只鞋颜色会变得接近。如果后期实在不行，就准备找国内修鞋超强超全能的文涛处理一下了
总之就还是敬畏人品守恒定律了，去年那双R标的379X没翻车，今年这个一等品的M楦却翻了。由此也再次印证了Alden的迷之QC品控
但对于一款宗教产品而言，其实针对做工细节瑕疵品控等等说啥都显得很徒劳了，宗教产品“不存在质量问题”
玩的就是牌子，这个领域能把品牌经营到【它称第二没人敢称第一的】，那就是Alden了……
Modified楦脚感与选码指南
试穿了一下觉得还挺合脚的，M楦确实比较适合大部分人，不仅仅是亚洲人。主要体现在鞋腰和后跟比常见的Alden B楦、Viberg 2030这种收的更紧，贴合度更好，也更跟脚
B楦是一个百年老楦了，鞋腰和后跟很宽松，当时的环境是让大部分人能穿就行，没有针对现代人优化。所以对于目前正常脚型正常足弓的国内外玩家来说，M会比B更合脚一点。如果自认为脚肥脚背高且比较扁平足的话，那就是B合脚的概率更大一些
至于选码指南，个人感受：
先确定好一个常见鞋靴的美码，比如红翼875/8111穿8D合适，踢不烂啥的穿41.5合适
以此为基准，再确定Alden尺码就大差不差了，比如M楦和B楦都可以选8D，379X可以选8E或者8.5D
我自己的话，是这样选的：M楦8D，379X 8D，Viberg 2030 8（袜子薄点的话7.5就行），Meermin Negon Kudu 7.5
Alden知名经销商TheShoeMart建议379比M选大半码，比如379穿9D合适的话，那么M可以选8.5D。这是因为M更宽，前掌容量更大
M和B楦一样都属于1/2 larger than dress shoe，而379X则是TTS (True To Size)，所以theshoemart建议379比M和B都要选小半码
B和M之间的换算也捉摸不定，虽然theshoemart建议B和M可以选同码，但是有人M的尺码还是可以比B楦小0.5~1码
以上信息仅供参考，如果错误请指正。具体尺码还是得自己去试。让人纠结的点在于379和M都有足弓凸起，M凸起更多，穿进去后同时改变了脚的长度和脚背围度，所以因人而异的程度更高，有人379和B同码，有的人则379比B加了半码，而部分扁平足会觉得这俩都不舒服
按照楦厂放码的规则，一般美码半码的长度差是4.2~4.3mm，围度差是3.1~3.2mm，1个字母的围度差是6.35mm。人的小脚趾对1~2mm都很敏感，如果小了1~2mm就会觉得挤脚
尺码往细了说确实非常繁琐，当你拿不准或者处于中间尺码的话，就尽量买大半码或者加一个字母围度（比如从D到E），通过袜子/鞋垫/鞋带松紧程度啥的自己调整好就行
旧化折痕：再次翻车
没想到开箱的时候翻车了一次，穿了几次旧化之后，又翻车了一次……
因为左右鞋头皮面厚度不一致，这双鞋头折痕翻车了，没穿几次就这样了，左右折痕差异有点大，右脚正常，但是左脚有很多看起来不和谐的折痕
而且左脚港宝比右脚的软很多，很容易按下去
我穿过不少马臀，整体上也穿过100双缝制鞋了，所以我比较清楚的知道什么是翻车，什么是正常
这次算是翻的彻底了，为啥运气这么差，为啥翻车的总是我，哎……因为影响到了穿着心情，所以这双就随便刮擦随便剐蹭了
接下来打算把前港宝拆掉，看看会不会改善一点，再不行就重建了…
缝制鞋这玩意终究还是需要时间来检验，买100双不如好好穿10双，数了下，我现在已经突破100双了…其中翻车10双，国产国外都会翻，其实概率还是蛮高的
最后骂一句：Alden翻车 损我钱财 耗我青春
差点忘了，一些上脚真人兽：
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发表于 2024-6-20 19:04
